Anti-dark spot/ Melasma

 Anti-dark spot/ Melasma

Testing the whitening or lightening efficacy of cosmetic products is a specialized process used to evaluate the ability of a product to reduce non-spot area, dark spots, or melasma.

These tests help determine whether the product can deliver the claimed benefits of skin whitening or lightening. Here are the key considerations for conducting whitening/lightening efficacy tests for cosmetic products:

Measurement: face/ dark spot/ scar/ melasma/ melanin/ body/ armpit
Kinetics: T0 and T+X weeks
- Skin whitening
- Skin lightening

Chromameter/ Spectrophotometer

Measurements are expressed in the form of L*a*b*:
- L* represents the relative brightness from total black (L*=0) to total white (L*=100)
- a* represents the balance between red and green
- b* represents the balance between yellow and blue

Therefore L* and ITA° are considered for the assessment of color changes throughout the study, the lighter the skin, the higher the L* and ITA° values.

>> Only statistic number data <<

Antera 3D®
is a camera developed by Miravex Limited could be used for image acquisition by illuminating skin with multidirectional light emitting diodes of seven different light wavelengths spanning over the entire visible spectrum. 

Color Image (Whitening/ Lightening)
• Color variation (ΔE)
• Skin brightness (L*)
• Skin redness (a*)
• Skin sallowness (b*)

Hemoglobin (redness)
• Average hemoglobin value
• Variation (consistency)
• Relative variation (%)

• Average melanin value
• Variation (consistency)
• Relative variation (%)

>> Statistic number data and photography <<

Clinical evaluation by trained judge
- Depending on the subject’s skin tone (light or dark), the technician chooses the most suitable light brown or brown color scale to perform scoring of skin color

>> Only statistic number data <<

Results are displayed on the device as “E” value for “erythema” and “M” for “melanin” value.
- A decrease in the melanin index corresponds to a decrease in the melanin pigmentation (i.e. the tested site is becoming whiter)
- A decrease in the erythema index corresponds to a decrease in the haemoglobin in the skin (i.e. the tested site is becoming less red)

>> Only statistic number data <<

Digital photographs with analysis:
Morphology analysis:
- Number of spots
- Average area of the spots (pixels²)
- Total area of the spots (pixels²)
- Total area of one dark spot (pixels²)
- Size of the spot (perimeter expressed in pixel)

Color analysis:
- Color of spots (L*, a*, b* and ITA° parameters)
- Color of one dark spot (L*, a*, b* and ITA° parameters) 
- Color of adjacent normal skin (L*, a*, b* and ITA° parameters)
- Difference of color (∆E*ab) between the spot and the skin 
- Difference of chroma C* (ΔC*) between dark spot and adjacent normal skin

Contour analysis:
- Difference of color (∆E*ab) between the most internal contour (noted Int3) and the most external contour (noted Ext3)
- Sharpness of the contours: variance of the ITA° parameter calculated on the 6 contours of the spot (3 internal contours and 3 external contours)

>> Statistic number data and photography <<


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20 March 2024

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